The Kashmir Most People Miss Most people plan Kashmir around its most famous seasons — spring for the tulips, summer for the green meadows and Gondola, and winter for the snow. But somewhere between these well-known seasons, Kashmir quietly changes character. From around mid-September to mid-November, the valley begins its transition into autumn. The Chinar trees slowly turn shades of yellow, orange and deep red, the saffron fields of Pampore come alive, apple orchards are bu

Choosing the Right Hotel in Kashmir The star rating on a hotel's door tells you something, but it does not tell you everything. Two hotels can carry the same five-star classification and offer completely different experiences — one facing a forest, another facing a car park. In Kashmir, where the landscape is a significant part of what you are paying for, which hotel you choose — and which room category you book — can make a considerable difference to your trip. Over the year

Three Valleys, One Journey The standard Kashmir itinerary follows a well-worn triangle: Srinagar, Gulmarg, Pahalgam. That route has earned its popularity — the destinations are genuinely impressive, the roads are good, and the infrastructure can absorb large numbers of visitors without much strain. But Kashmir is considerably larger and more varied than that triangle suggests, and the northern arc of the valley — the region stretching from the Line of Control near Keran throu