Daksum — South Kashmir's Most Underrated Gateway (Travel Guide 2026)
- tribesmentravels
- May 15, 2023
- 6 min read
Updated: May 18
Ms. Suraya Postal had booked Marwah Valley and Warwan Valley. She had come from Mumbai specifically for those two destinations — four nights planned, itinerary confirmed then the weather closed Margan Top. We had to make a decision. The passes were blocked the valleys she had come to see were on the other side of a crossing that was not safe. We called her. We explained the passes were blocked, and the valleys she had come to see were no longer safely accessible. We offered Daksum — one night already planned as a transit stay, extended to four nights as a full destination.
This guide covers Daksum in Kashmir — including places to visit, itinerary ideas, nearby villages, and why it works as a standalone destination even when mountain passes are closed.
She agreed — with trust, and with the understanding that we would make the alternative worth the change. Four nights in Daksum — Kaachwan, Mati village, Mathi Gavran, Lihinwan, Upper Daksum, Kokernag, Verinag. She left mesmerized. The passes never opened. She did not mention Marwah once on the drive back to Srinagar. That trip is the reason we now believe Daksum is not a transit stop before the passes. It is a destination in its own right.
A guest came for Marwah and Warwan. The weather said no. Daksum said yes — for four nights, across every corner of the Breng Valley, with more to show than she had time to see. The passes stayed closed. She left with no regrets. That is how we learned what Daksum actually is.
Quick Overview — Daksum Kashmir
Location: Breng Valley, Anantnag district
Distance: ~110 km from Srinagar
Best time: April to October
Best for: Offbeat travellers, nature stays, slow travel
Nearby highlights: Kokernag, Verinag, Mati village, Kothar Valley
This is a simplified overview — detailed guide follows below.
The four nights — what Daksum gave her
Night | Original plan | What actually happened |
1 | Transit to Daksum | Arrived Daksum. Weather checked. Margan Top closed. Decision made: stay. |
2 | Warwan Valley | Kokernag trout farm. Verinag spring. |
3 | Marwah Valley | Mati village. Mathi Gavran. Upper Daksum. The valley opened in every direction. |
4 | Marwah Valley | Kothar Valley deeper. The passes still closed — Daksum still delivering. |
5 | Return Srinagar | Return via Achabal. Suraya Postal from Mumbai: mesmerized. And the passes never opened. |
Where is Daksum — and Why Does It Matter Now?
Daksum sits in the Breng Valley of South Kashmir, Anantnag district, at approximately 2,438 metres above sea level. The Breng river runs alongside it. The forest above it is dense and cold in the way that high-altitude deodar forests are cold.
For most of its modern life, Daksum was a transit point — a place people passed through on the way to somewhere else that is changing. Not because Daksum itself has changed, but because the traveller has.
The gateway it has always been
From Daksum | Pass / Route | Where it leads |
via Margan Top | Margan Top 12,125 ft | Choharnag lakes → Warwan Valley → Marwah Valley → Famber Valley → Kishtwar National Park |
via Simthan Top | Simthan Top ~12,000 ft | Breng Valley → Kishtwar town. |
Kothar Valley | Valley road — no pass | Kaachwan. Bakarwal settlements. |
Three years ago there was one hotel in Daksum. Now several properties have opened. This is the sequence that preceded the tourism development of Gurez, of Sonamarg. Daksum is in it right now — the window between 'almost nobody has heard of it' and 'everyone who goes to Kashmir has been.'

The Drive from Srinagar — Every Stop Earns Its Place
Stop | ~Km from Srinagar | What is here |
Achabal Garden | ~58 km | Mughal garden, historic spring. First stop heading south. |
Kokernag | ~80 km | Asia's largest trout farm + spring gardens. Pick up your fish here. |
Verinag | ~90 km | Origin of the Jhelum river. Mughal octagonal tank. Five minutes off the road. |
Daksum | ~110 km | Base for Breng Valley. Hotels now available. Gateway to Simthan, Margan Top, Kothar Valley. |
Mati village | ~115 km | 80–120 nomadic huts opposite the stream. 20–25 min walk. Stop the car. |
Kaachwan / Kothar Valley | ~120 km | Opposite Daksum. Bakarwal homestay. Where Faheem and Suraya Postal experienced the valley properly. |
Stop 1 Achabal Garden 58 km — Mughal garden, historic spring
A Mughal garden built around a natural spring. Quieter than Shalimar, less visited, and in the right season the combination of garden geometry and spring water is the kind of beauty that arrives without announcement. Thirty minutes ,w orth every one.
Stop 2 Kokernag — Asia's Largest Trout Farm 80 km — pick up the fish here
The Kokernag trout farm is government-operated and has been producing Kashmir trout for decades in cold spring-fed water. If you are continuing to Kaachwan — as we do with every Daksum guest — stop here and buy the fish fresh. The trout arrives at the Bakarwal family's fire the same evening. That is the meal the trip is built around.
The spring gardens of Kokernag are also worth an hour — the water that runs through them is the same spring system that feeds the farm, and in bloom season the gardens have a quality that the more famous Srinagar gardens do not.
Stop 3 Verinag — Where the Jhelum Begins 90 km — five minutes off the road
Most Kashmir visitors have heard of the Jhelum river. Very few have been to where it begins. Verinag is a natural spring enclosed by a Mughal octagonal stone tank built by Emperor Jahangir, who loved this spring enough to return repeatedly. The Jhelum flows from here through the entire Kashmir Valley, into Pakistan, and eventually into the Indus.
Five minutes from the main road the combination of Mughal architecture, natural spring, and the knowledge of where you are standing — at the beginning of one of the subcontinent's great rivers — is worth more than five minutes.
Stop 4 Daksum 110 km — the base
You arrive in Daksum in the late afternoon if you leave Srinagar in the morning and stop properly. Hotels are available — several now, a significant change from four years ago. Basic to mid-range, positioned for the forest and the river. Daksum is the base from which everything else in this guide is reached.
Mati Village — Stop the Car
On the road beyond Daksum, opposite the stream, there is a village called Mati.
Pull over. You will not regret it. Mati has between 80 and 120 nomadic huts — the summer settlement of Gujjar and Bakarwal communities who bring their herds to this altitude when the season opens. From the road, the view is one of the most picturesque in South Kashmir. A 20 to 25 minute walk brings you into the settlement itself.

Mati village is not in any travel guide. No signage, no car park, no entry ticket. You stop because you see something on the hillside that your eyes recognise as extraordinary before your mind has processed it. Walk twenty-five minutes. Stand at the edge. Let Suraya's question answer itself.
Kothar Valley & Kaachwan — The Side of Daksum Nobody Writes About
Opposite Daksum, across the main valley, lies Kothar Valley. Most Daksum visitors never cross to it. A Bakarwal family hosts guests here. Not in a registered guesthouse — in their home, with their fire, with food from their kitchen. This is not bookable on any platform. We arrange it directly, including the Kokernag trout and the crossing to Kothar. Contact us before you book.

The Villages of Breng Valley — A Drive That Is Its Own Destination
Larnu — a Kashmiri village on the valley road that looks exactly as a Kashmiri village is supposed to look.
Vailoo— First stop after Kokernag
Gavran — last village before Margan Top.
Lihinwan — deep into the valley few visitors reach it. Always go further in Breng Valley than you planned.

Frequently Asked Questions About Daksum
Q: Is Daksum worth visiting if the passes are closed?
Yes — Daksum is a destination independently of what lies beyond it.
Q: What is the Kokernag trout farm?
Asia's largest government-operated trout farm, on the Srinagar–Daksum road in Kokernag. Spring-fed, cold water, decades of operation. Buy fresh fish here on the way to Daksum .
Q: Can I book the Kaachwan Bakarwal homestay independently?
No. This is not on any platform we arrange it directly — including the Kokernag trout pickup, the Kothar Valley crossing, and the hosting by the family we have worked with since 2023. Contact us before your travel dates and we build it into your itinerary.
Q: What are the passes accessible from Daksum?
Margan Top (12,125 ft) leads to Choharnag lakes, Warwan Valley, Marwah Valley, Famber Valley and the Kishtwar National Park. Simthan Top leads to Kishtwar town. Both are open May to October and closed November to April.
Q: What is Verinag?
The source of the Jhelum river — a natural spring in a Mughal octagonal stone tank built by Emperor Jahangir, five minutes off the main Srinagar–Daksum road. The Jhelum flows from here through Kashmir into Pakistan and eventually the Indus. One of the subcontinent's great rivers begins in this garden.
Q: How long should I stay in Daksum?
Two nights minimum for the core experience — Kaachwan, Mati, Kokernag and Verinag. Three nights if you want the Breng Valley villages. Four nights — as Suraya did — if you want everything. And if the passes open, any nights in Daksum combine naturally with the Marwah and Warwan extension beyond.
Plan My Daksum Trip — WhatsApp: wa.me/916006464123 | +91 600 6464 123
What Daksum leads to: Margan Top | Choharnag | Warwan Valley | Marwah Valley | Famber Valley | Kishtwar National Park



Comments